Saturday, June 19, 2010

whyyyyyyyyy ghana, whyyyy?

i'm currently sitting in joburg as close to the heater as possible while avoiding burns, flipping around two coins i have on a piece of string from egypt. the first of these coins went on when i got to egypt a few months ago. the second went on 3 weeks later when i finally got myself sorted to leave egypt for ghana. i am wondering what two symbolic things i'll make for my south africa version of this blessed debacle. the rand doesn't come with coins with holes so, i'll have to keep my eyes open for something else.

i was hoping to be on my way to the airport on the flashy gautrain right about now but, that would be a silly idea. instead, i'm wrapping my head around being here until next saturday. hooray? and, joburg during world cup isn't nearly as friendly to exploring as egypt was so, its not looking like a particularly exciting or inspiring week.

i threw myself a pretty solid pity party this morning... complaining about spending more money, about waiting more time, about being stuck in the suburbs with a tourist-infested mall as my main place to explore, about the cold, and just about anything else i could dream up. i began flipping through facebook looking at what friends and family were doing, wishing that i could be home with them and wondering why i seem to make things so freakin difficult for myself.

my mope-fest was interrupted by a nocturnal friend who was hanging around facebook chat as well. i couldn't be more happy for his nocturnal tendencies because it helped put my incredibly lucky life, which i have nothing to honestly complain about, into perspective.

so, revising my pity party... i have to spend more money that i don't feel i have, but really do and can make back when i come home. i have to spend more time in a country that the world is watching, and feeling the excitement (albeit damped excitement after bafana's last game) of a country that pulls together for one sport. not only that, but i'm stuck in an area of the country where most people dream of living. exploring opportunities may be limited today but, i've also just come back from a huge exploration of southern africa so maybe a boring week is in order. and, while i'm not with friends and family at home, there are some here... and those at home have been around to talk with online and listen to me complain about nothing worthwhile. i suppose i'm lucky afterall.

making me feel more guilty was talking with this nocturnal friend about what i wanted to see happen back in the camp, and how i could possibly go around helping friends who recently asked me why god put them on this earth if it was only to suffer. that kind of question, asked by kids younger than me, is something worth complaining about. another week in parkhurst is not.

what ultimately frustrates me about these visa complications is that not only are they avoidable with a bit of thought and planning (a lesson i have still not fully learned). further, the the money i have to spend on stupid technicalities and bureaucratic hoops could be so much more effectively used in the camp... i think... although, in past trips giving away money has acted as a quick solution to get people to stop talking about what was wrong. maybe a total lack of money on my part will force me to get even more creative with solutions that are possibly more lasting then, here is $20. $20 isn't creative, it doesn't address the problem and it arguably helps me (and the incredible sense of guilt i feel while i sit in my house having 3 meals a day) more than it helps the recipient.

oh also. its world refugee day tomorrow and i wish so badly i was spending it with refugees rather than in a nice suburb of joburg making superficial nods to the plight of refugees worldwide.

annnnd this now concludes the end of my pity party and the beginning of a week devoted to internet research on how to make - for lack of a better saying - the world a better place. tall order for 7 days eh?

so, liberians that read this... see you NEXT saturday. sorry for the false hope. friends/family that read this... thanks for listening to me mope and making me feel missed. ETFL supporters that read this... give me your ideas for how to make this world a better place and work that i could be doing this week (no pressure).

oh and, new blog feature: sign up for ETFL's newsletter (look top right of the blog) if you're not on the list already!

annnnnnnd, go.

Thursday, June 10, 2010

sanity restored

seems a bunch of people were questioning my sanity after that last post... to say nothing of what my mom thought. hindsight yeah, not the best thought out plan but it made for excellent stories, a good tan and a whole lot of character. that being said, after more overnight busses and trains than i thought i could do, i'm back in joburg listening to an obnoxious amount of vuvuzelas signaling world cup kick off.

hitching slowed down considerably after namibia. sore backs, sore feet and long distances cramped that style which was probably for the best. instead, we began opting for the worlds slowest trains. somehow, it took us almost 12 hours to travel less than 400km from the coast to windhoek. then later, 15 hours to travel about 400km from victoria falls to bulawayo, zimbabwe. luckily, its super cheap, is a nights accommodation and is certainly an adventure. zim train was definitely a highlight, largely because we prepared ourselves with pizza and beer after days of eating stupid nutrific bars (something you'd normally soak in milk to avoid drying out your mouth and to give it flavour... without it, i imagine it is what hamsters eat).

zimbabwe, despite being freakishly cold at night when you're not prepared for winter in a tent, was somewhere i'd been hoping to visit since doing an aggressive amount of research on it a few years back. obviously i'd love to spend more time there to really get a feel for the place but that wasn't this trip.

instead, i got a chance to see a few of the major towns, as well as these really cool ruins that show pre-colonial development of an african society... shame the portuguese came in and crushed that all. i actually had no idea these ruins even existed (south of masvingo) and they ended up being a really nice note to finish the trip on. of course, so was the 100 trillion dollar bill that we picked up while listening to the guy describe how the bank across the street used to light it all on fire for lack of a better idea. with the USD/rand around, these bills are now being sold to tourists for more than they were ever worth (which still, isn't much). for now, it feels a bit like a ghost town from the 60s full of more whites than i ever imagined, bits of hope, no peanut butter but loads of imported fruit (including avocados, that i'd long been without in SA!).

i feel like that was sort of a weird description of zimbabwe but, it really is a strange place.

anyway. exhausted, i'm now catching up on real life in joburg. real coffee, hot showers, warm clothes and warm food aside, ETFL's to do list has grown over the past month and i'm keen to get moving on it. the traveling has been nice but i couldn't be more excited to sit down today with unlimited internet and get things sorted before another whirlwind takes off...

Thursday, June 3, 2010

flipflop hitch hiking

change of plans. rather than kicking around zambia - which turns out, id on't like nearly as much as i thought i would - i'm in namibia. i've been hitch hiking from north to south, which turns out, is not easy. botswana hitching was way easier than we thought, and it probably built up too much confidence in our ability to get around. however, thanks to pickup trucks and tour busses, we're alive and out of one of the 'most remote places in africa'.

what i love about hitching is the giant highs and lows you get... and they probably best sum up what we've been up to.

high: you can drive close to the kalahari if you beg someone to let you sit on the top of their truck for 2 hours while he drives to the gate.

low: without your own car, and the money to back it up, you can't actually get into the kalahari.

high: a kenyan that lives in botswana who drives to the DRC via zambia every 2 weeks and picks us up from (another) gas station and not only doesn't want money for petrol but buys us lunch!

low: 15 hour minibus rides (overnight) through northern namibia that stop at every gas station en route and play the same 5 songs over and over again.

high: being picked up at 530 am from a gas station in a northern namibian town that nobody ever goes to, and being driven exactly where you want to go.

low: finding out that the guy who picks you up is a bad singer who loves singing and honking at small birds on the road that are kilometers away.

high: the kaokoveld. one of the most remote places in africa...

low: realizing 100 km into the kaokoveld that nobody drives there, that you have no water, and that your cracker diet really dries up your waterless mouth.

bigger low: realizing that you're not 2km away from the nearest town, but 50km. and that there is no water for the next 50 km and you have 3 gulps each.

bigger low: thinking that while you're sleeping on a bed of rocks on the side of a road, that the car that drove by has stopped and is planning to rob you blind.

high: realizing, after you burried your valuables under rocks away from your tent, that the car drove away and never came back.

low: waking up with the sorest body in the world and a gigantic hill to hike up in front of you... and with no water. and food that only dries your mouth further. and flipflops on your feet that make sure you feel every rock you step on.

bigger high: having a german tour bus pass you and give you 6 bottles of water.

biggest high of my week: hearing the reverse sounds of the german bus as it decides that it will rescue you from the kaokoveld afterall and drive you really far... saving your life.

low: saying goodbye to the german tour bus and being left in a very unforgiving desert.

low: making horrible instant coffee in a water bottle on the side of the road to lift spirits and curb hunger, while realizing that you hate the game 20 questions.

high: being picked up by a colorado school trip from the middle of the desert after every other tourist drives by pretending they can't see you.

bigger high: hurtling down desert roads on the top of a 4x4 as some of hte most incredible landscapes pass you by.

even bigger high: after selling your sister for a horse to luckyboy in uis, namibia (sorry poops-), the school group invites you to tag along with them to camp at some really cool mountain, and feeds you a meal that isn't pb on strange bread,

low: getting really fucking lost at night in those mountains as you try to navigate home from the town's local bar.

low: the smell of probably millions of seals that are not very cute.

low: a weird desert town that is supposed to be more german than germany but feels more like a ghost town with funny architecture and a permanent seal smell.

high: making spaghetti in the ghost town and having a full stomach after a week and a half of really terrible food and being hungry.

its been a really strange week. it gets stranger as i sit in this german town trying to mesh this hitch hiking life with my actual life and put this all together. feels a bit confusing, and just plain weird. tonight we get back on the move across botswana to finally get to zimbabwe (the original point of this whole trip). then south africa. then GHAANNNAA!!!!

Sunday, May 23, 2010

swanky things

the past few weeks have been full of life-planning, thanks to my mom's visit over. the two of us had a really nice trip full of leopard cub spotting, waterfall swims, rock art, and the occasional obnoxious tour guide or sunset cruise. it was certainly a different style of traveling, with it being planned and all, but i can see how people are fans of being shipped around without thinking. there were no nightmare bus rides in the middle of the night with friends ready to punch out old women (mozambique was full of that), so thats a perk.

i've decided to cut my time short in SA and head up to ghana for july and august (then, to my mom's excitement, home for the beginning of september). i've got volunteers coming over this summer which i think coudl be a really fantastic opportunity for ETFL, CBW and buduburam so i would like to make sure i can help us take full advantage of that. plus, after having spent a few months watching how other organizations work, i've got a few more ideas for things that we can do in the camp to make the whole thing smoother and more helpful. hopefully that return will make blogs a bit more interesting to read, and less about my travel.

so, with a busy 2 months in ghana on the horizon i'm off to botswana (because its close), zambia (to volunteer, and make myself feel semi-legitimate) and zimbabwe (because its on my bucket list). somehow my time in SA has become really numbered which is too bad but exciting. i think i'm ready to keep moving. months here have really helped me appreciate what we've got going in buduburam and i am excited to go back there with fresh eyes.

the southern africa tour begins (blindly) tomorrow. today though, i'm spending the day in madikwe game reserve at a friend's super swanky lodge getting my act together with wireless internet. going away traveling is a nice break from the project but i get such a huge to-do list in my head that to actually get online and tick things off is arguably more therapeutic than the time away. its also looking like this will be my final taste of luxury travel before getting back to where i belong as a backpacker bouncing around through botswana, hopefully getting to where we want to be.

wish us luck on this last stint (or stunt). we've done a shit packing job cutting all sorts of necessary things. i cut moisturizer for fear of explosion and already i'm annoyed with that call. what will be worse is when we find out that in fact it does rain in africa and the fly of the tent, that we cut since it was too bulky, would really be helpful. we have raincoats though. and a lonely planet. and hopefully, good senses of humour.

Monday, May 3, 2010

being a suck.

i never thought i'd find myself wasting my life away on facebook and whining about winter coming while i was in 'africa'. yet another wonder of johannesburg, i suppose. i'm sorry to anyone that has had to experience me being the biggest suck in the world during the past few days.

got back from mozambique a week ago today. trip was a pretty good time... learned that i certainly don't speak portuguese and should stop telling people i have basic abilities in spanish as well. brushed up on major communist figures while in the capital, maputo, since they name every street after one of them. oddly enough, despite the pride in FRELIMO and the revolution, they have "temporarily" closed the revolution museum... pretty sure they haven't opened it since the 70s. worked out though... instead we got to see some of the mozambican art scene that was actually quite well documented through a few galleries. we lucked out and met a dutch girl working at one and she was good enough to give us an explanation of how art has evolved since the portuguese in the 60s. after checking out maputo's praised bar scene (flashy bars, not great luck with music) and stuffing ourselves with more prawns, mussels, calamari and mystery fish than necessary, we came back to the city.

the idea was to spend 2 days here, saying bye to 2 friends and getting some work done. of course, i have had yet another run in with diplomatic bureaucracy and rather than returning to hlabisa before my mom comes over, i'm stuck waiting for a passport to get fixed up. with the exception of the odd perfect fall day, the weather has been dreary and sucking the life out of me thus all the facebook time. it also keeps sparking quarter-life crises that prompt frantic googling for jobs where i come up short over and over again.

kyle, my buddy in winter (or i guess its only fall) joburg depression, and i will probably make pancakes in the morning as celebration of being total wastes of space. pathetic, i know. then maybe, if its not completely terrible outside, we'll go see the planetarium.

plus side, today SMYLe - the marimba band - had a performance at joburgs fifa stadium. along with watching another knock out performance, i got to wander around the new stadium a bit while they handed out free tickets to all the people who built it. they make it hard in this city not to get excited about the world cup... it forced a temporary break from being a total suck.

this has been a very eeyore entry. suppose i missed the usual winter blahs this year in canada so its only fair that i get stuck with them now.

Monday, April 19, 2010

hlabisa... finally

feeding on the familiarity of malawi, ive left joburg and am living - for a short while - im hlabisa, south africa. it is north east from durban in kwa-zulu natal... really hilly, really green, really far from parkhurst.

parkhurst was, and continues to be, a learning experience. i think ive said this a million times but it was out of my element and showed maybe the future of where i need to take ETFL... its a slightly grey looking future of annual reports, corporate relationships and other things less exciting than field work but its an inevitable part, i suppose.

hlabisa has been more field work which is loads more fun. im only here for a week right now but have gathered a host of ideas that i'll bring back to ghana.

i spend a lot of time kicking around the KZN branch of cotland's orphanage (where i was in joburg for a bit). the area has a good amount of child-headed househoulds and the approach to this is different. there are a series of caregivers who visit the houses regularly, making sure that the children have the supplies they need. the cotlands feeding program goes to these kids specifically, dropping off lunches for them at school (not taking on entire schools). they are lucky enough to have an exit strategy for feeding programs as well... the SA government will absorb schools bit by bit. 2 entire high schools were absorbed this week and now every child there gets a hot meal each day. i will hopefully come back to learn more how the government monitors the schools' progress etc.

the pace out here is slower and faster than joburg. i feel like i spend a lot of time not doing much more than talking... nice thing is that i am removed enough from the program that you get relatively candid descriptions of the positives and negatives of feeding, management and life... that role was one i used to have in the camp but i feel like i have lost it over the past almost two years for good and bad reasons.

ive spent a bit of time learning about the more "manly" projects that they guys have been working on. building roofs, installing water collection things etc. i'm not particularly helpful here beyond weaving grass bracelets for them... but i am hoping to carry back some of these projects to the camp so that i can stop buying water. more on that to come later though..

outside of work ive been hanging around with a few friends who have been fantastic about showing me the ropes. driving around and having mini tailgate parties are huge here, especially on wednesdays. bit uneasy being the only girl that does this but, it wears off. 2 friends also took us to a zulu wedding on the weekend which was pretty cool to watch. driving to it included a quick trip through a game reserve in the back of a pickup full of whisky - a combo that i think could make anyone pretty pleased.

heading up to mozambique tomorrow for a few days before two of the guys go home, then mumsy is coming over to south africa to see what all the hype is about!

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

lake malawi

just got back from a quick long weekend at lake malawi. how very madonna of me (no, i didn't see her and no, i didn't bring home a baby).

we spent 5 days driving up the coast of the lake, swimming around little beach towns. i forgot how long it had been since i really spent time at a lake- got all nostalgic about canoeing, camping and not showering. i happily got right back into the swing of not washing my hair. i think the guys i travelled with were thrilled.

malawi felt familiar. while i'm sure if i spent a bit of time in one spot i'd see how many differences there are between malawi, ghana and uganda, on the surface it felt like one of my homes. little kids were thrilled to see white people walk by and threw around the thumbs up like it was nobody's business. there were hundreds of vendors selling soap, coke, biscuits and small packets of gin. i followed a pretty strict diet of PB, fresh avocado and fish. i spent most of my time dreaming up more places to visit and thinking about how badly i wish i could scoot over to ghana just for a bit.

after a what seemed like ages of flipping through annual reports (and my time doing that was nothing compared to the months of it the others put up with) it was nice to get back to all of that. there is a bit more to get done before the project is officially finished but it is certainly in the home stretch. this probably stems from how superficial my work has been on the project, but it feels like this report is a stab in the dark. ill be interested to see/hear about the effects of it in the long run.

i'll be in jobuurg for the next week and then am making a move east to a small town called hlabisa. don't know much about it but i hear good things. limited internet access though... not that the blog will notice since i continue to be terrible at updating it.

quick update about ETFL... school in ghana runs year round in 3 terms (sept-dec, jan-apr, may-aug). term 2 is wrapping up next week and i'll bee shooting out a newsletter at the end of april to sum up what has gone on (email lindsay@eattofeedliberians.com if you're not already on the mailing list). i desperately need more people to sign up for the 1+1=7 campaign. its been painfully slow and i'm running out of ideas on how to get people to do it. visit www.eattofeedliberians.com/oneplusone.html to sign up. or email me if you'd rather do one yearly payment. its $60 yearly and without people doing this the third term is going to be a tough one to fund.

other news... the camp was hit with a whopper of a storm the other week and it has really butchered the roof of our pre-primary campus. we're working out repair details and there will be more news there shortly. i'll need hands to help with that as well.

okay! thats all for now. pictures of all the different things mentioned in the newsletter will be up on facebook shortly.